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Week long Seafood Binge

while Sailing in Croatia

May 08, 2018

Yes, and this time we are taking one of the “off beaten paths” of common vacation routes and heading to the gentle Mediterranean climate on the board of a sailing yacht.

 

It can get overwhelming when you must decide which islands to visit, where to dock overnight, and which restaurants to have dinner at, but no need to worry, because with over ten years of holiday experience in this country - we got you covered here!

 

First things first, you should arrive to Split or Zadar, those are two most convenient airports to travel to on Croatia’s coast. Spoiler alert - they are small and crowded, so plan wisely, as every minute in this chaotic hub is a test of will.

 

OK, so you have landed, got your luggage and heading to one of the marinas to board your floating home for the next week. This adventure started from ACI Marina Split, which overlooks the center of Split, and is just 15 minutes’ walk or 5 minutes water taxi ride away from it.

 

Shopping for provision of fresh fruits and vegetables for snacks on the boat

 

This is a very crowded and energetic marina with lots of people, boats and events. Make sure to book your lunch at Adriatic Graco ahead of time. It serves amazing fine food, with probably the most perfect views over endless water, worth coming back for sunset. But check in advance, as due to the abovementioned magnificent views, the place is very likely to be reserved for a wedding or private event.

 

water taxi to Split

 

After your tummy starts digesting delicious food, head to Split for a walk along sunny streets of Old Town, built from white limestone and full of beautiful buildings, cozy corners and quaint narrow streets.

 

pit stop for wine

 

For dinner head to Bajamonti, located on the central square, this restaurant is away from touristic hustle and bustle. Tip for dining out in Croatia - go for seafood and you won’t ever be disappointed; it is always fresh, well cooked and paired well with local wine. Speaking of which: do not expect much from Croatian wines, but keep in mind that in most places you won’t have any other options, so you might want to stock up with your favorites at duty free shop on your way over, or go for Posip, a local wine, which is probably the best dry and fruity white wine one can get down here.

 

Ahoi

Next morning, after a cup of coffee, it is time to spread open the sails and make your way to tiny Dvrenik Mali island. Absolute pleasure to anchor in the turquoise waters for a few hours, where you can snorkel and have a superb lunch with fresh catch of the day in family restaurant that is simply called - Konoba, meaning a Restaurant in Croatian.

 

approaching Rogoznica

 

Another couple of hours of sailing and you will reach Marina Frapa Rogoznica, where you definitely want to stay overnight. This is a luxury marina that has everything from good restaurants, hotels and swimming pool, to free yoga and aqua aerobics in the mornings. Make sure you book a table at Antonijo’s for dinner, similarly - seafood, grilled fish, fresh pasta with clams, wine and warm breeze in your face will prepare you for a goodnight sleep.

 

Set your alarm for an early wakeup call and go for a dive into a mountain lake, just beside the parking lot (ask locals). Experience deep, dark green and very peaceful lake inviting you into its warm waters and promising amazing Instagram shots at the same time.

 

serenity of the morning lake

Good morning! Refreshed after the morning swim in the lake and a cup of strong coffee yet? Suddenly you realize you are already halfway into  our week long trip. Today you’ve got two new locations to explore. First anchor at Primosten, just a couple of hours away, for lunch on the beach and a walk around town. Then move on to Marina Mandalina at Sibenik and sit down for dinner at Sibenik’s center Konoba Nostalgia. This is more of a cafe type restaurant that serves, for a change, very good salads and desserts.

 

anchoring near one of the islands

 

Wake up early next morning because you are just a taxi ride away from Krka National Park,  known for its seven waterfalls, un-obstructive nature paths and traditional watermills. Why an early wake up is needed? Because if you arrive with the very first group of people, you can enjoy a dip in the waterfalls, whereas around 10 a.m. the place is going to be flooded with tourists and, unless you like to feel like a canned sardine, I would not recommend this experience.

 

Views of Krka National Park lakes
Famous Waterfalls in Krka National Park

 

In the evening head to Marina Hramina at Murter, the town itself is nothing special, but this marina has a great restaurant - Butina, where you want to enjoy the sunset and a good selection of imported wines as well, because I am pretty sure that at this point of your trip you are going to be thirsty for good old glass of chilled Krug, or miss sipping on classic Pinot Grigio.

 

sunsets at Marina Hramina

So far you have been excited with each coming day, seeing new places, surrounded by blue waters, passing by small islands and getting spoiled with outstanding seafood. Well, the cherry on the top is coming up - we are heading to Zut island and private marina for  Festa restaurant. This tiny, man-created paradise is offering everything one needs for complete relaxation - massage and gym on the beach, cocktail lounge, inflatable playground in the water where you can go back to childhood, and truly an outstanding restaurant. Make sure you order your dinner in advance (call and pre order), fresh lobsters, langoustines, fresh fish, this is the place to have a feast. Get the seafood platter for a starter and dessert plate to polish it off.

Cocktail bar and restaurant behind it  at Zut island
Simple, fresh seafood lunch, Croatian style
Authentic massage salon under an open sky at Festa Marina

Next morning, burn your calories by climbing up the hill to enjoy the sunrise and breathtaking views over the bay.

 

 

Last day is all about smooth sailing back to Marina Hramina, from there you can take a taxi back to the airport and head home with millions of photos and memories of salty wind, dolphins playfully swimming along your boat, sun and excited awaken taste buds.

 

 

by Jana Belugina